The days in New Orleans go by quickly, but the pace is slow. The thick and sticky air demanded a reverence which required me to give up my quick New York clip in favor of a more moderate saunter as we walked the streets of the French Quarter - and beyond -, forcing me to take my time.

Our crew for the long weekend had little interest in the famed Bourbon Street (mostly because of its fame) and an aversion to crowds, but we were still determined to eat well, dance and listen to jazz. This combination of desires led us, on most days, to set out beyond the French Quarter to explore the city’s other neighborhoods.

For those with a similar penchant to go beyond, below are a few quick tips and plenty of recommendations for a long weekend enjoying all that is New Orleans. I stayed in the city for 4 days and 5 nights which felt like plenty of time to enjoy the city – and even get some swamp time in - while leaving plenty left to be explored for a future visit. I could have easily stayed another few days simply sitting in cafes, absorbing the heat.

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The French Quarter:

The French Quarter was our backdrop. Quintessential New Orleans. The streets are lined with balconied buildings and covered in vines – all incredibly charming. While we initially looked to rent an apartment, pricing for airbnb’s actually meant that we opted instead to book a hotel, staying in the outskirts of this central neighborhood. I was initially skeptical of staying in such a touristy area but I’m glad we did. It was worth it to have the French Quarter within walking distance.

By staying central we had a great home base for exploring the city and this meant that we could pop into our hotel for an afternoon nap (which happened daily) or take breaks in the cool air as we pleased. You certainly don’t need to stay central to enjoy New Orleans, but for a first visit it’s a good place to start. Each day we woke up and would start our day with a New Orleans iced coffee from French Truck , to slowly wake up and plan our day.

Here are some of my favorite spots in The Quarter:

Brunch: Head to Ruby Slipper. It is a local chain, but the food is big and fried and they serve bacon infused vodka.

Café Amelie – This outdoor café is lush with plants and palms and I could sit there all day. A great morning spot for some calm before the day begins or as an afternoon respite. But be sure to check the opening hours before you go.

Royal street- if antiques are your thing, Royal Street is your place. Even if you’re not into antiques, this is a beautiful street to explore, wandering in and out of the shops. A street filled with iron works, paintings, vintage finds...

Tarot Cards – Do some research before you present your palm or give your time to just anyone. Price and authenticity vary wildly. I recommend Earth Odyssey. This was, honestly, the first time I’d ever had my Tarot Cards read, but thanks to a few word-of-mouth and Google recommendations, I had a truly great experience. Be sure to book at least a day in advance as spots fill up quick.

The Sazerac: The Sazerac is the official cocktail of New Orleans and some say the first American cocktail. There are a few places in New Orleans where you can get a killer cocktail, and The Sazerac bar at the Roosevelt Hotel is one of them. Just outside the French Quarter, it is a beautiful art deco bar that will make you feel fancy and proper and like you must be doing something right with your life because all of your decisions have somehow led you here. While the cocktails are not cheap, it makes for a nice afternoon sip or final nightcap.

Café Du Monde: If you are going to pop into Café Du Monde for their famous Beignets, I recommend going late. As we were headed home, well after midnight, on our first night in the city we came across the café and drawn by the smell of fried pastry – headed in without wait. During the day, the line for Café Du Monde flows well down the block, akin to lines you might find at Disneyland. The beignets are not worth the long line, so go when the crowd has died away (It’s open 24 hours) – I suggest as a midnight snack.

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The Bywater:

The Bywater was the first neighborhood we visited beyond the French Quarter. More than one person told us we had to go to Bachanal, a wine bar with backyard jazz every afternoon and evening.

We initially walked to the Bywater from the French Quarter – an ill-advised move. Being New Yorkers, a 45 minute walk didn’t seem so bad, but we didn’t calculate for the humidity or the fact that NO ONE walks to their destination once out of the French Quarter, or in general once outside of New York City. However, it wasn’t all a loss as there was plenty of street art and murals to enjoy along the way. We also discovered plenty of local bars and restaurants which we popped into later in our trip.

If you do go to Bachanal (and I really think you should), I recommend renting bikes and riding along the Mississippi through Crescent Park, particularly if you visit in the afternoon. The park is beautiful and makes for a fun and pleasant ride. If you decide to visit in the evening, get a cab and be sure to get there on the earlier side if you want to snag a table.

I enjoyed this bar so much I went twice – once in the afternoon and once in the evening. Either time of day is incredibly enjoyable. The afternoons are quieter and have a slow Sunday feeling, while the evenings are much more lively and you are more likely to make friends with the strangers surrounding you.

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Marigny:

We wandered into the Marigny from the recommendation of our bartender at Bachanal.

He told us to go to the Marigny and head straight to Mimi’s. To then go upstairs and order the tapas – any or all of them. Which is exactly what we did. We ordered too many of them, but every single bite was delicious and I have zero regrets.

After Mimi’s we headed to The Franklin. We did not get a chance to sample the menu, but if the food is as good as the cocktails, you will not be disappointed. The cocktails at Franklin’s are New York worthy, perhaps even better given their friendly $10 price tag (which dips to only $5 on Happy Hour) and the Sazerac here was the best I tasted while in the city.

Frenchman Street: If you, like us, do not want to go to Bourbon Street, I highly recommend walking yourself over to Frenchman Street – situated right between the Marigny and the French Quarter. We spent most of our evenings on this street, walking from bar to bar, stopping to listen to Jazz at each spot. A particular favorite of mine was Bamboula’s. Rare Form is another great spot to spend some time, especially as they have outdoor space. But over the course of the night, be sure to wander up and down Frenchman street and you will find plenty of places to fall into and enjoy.

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The Garden District:

Not being from the South, the Garden District felt like the epitome of Southern Elegance and riches. French Colonial mansions line the streets, each complete with wrap around porches and protected by iron fences designed with intricate flowery detail. As a child, these were the homes I fantasized about – the sort of home a Disney Princess or adopted orphan might live in.

There are plenty of places in the city where you can pay a guide to walk you around and tell you the area’s history, or (and this would be my recommendation), you can do what we did and download a map and go on a self-guided walking tour of the district, here.

Brunch - We began our time here with brunch at Coquette. If you’re a foodie, this is your place. Coquette has a romantic turn of the century design, giving the restaurant a cozy, elegant feel. The three-course brunch is only $30 – a steal for someone from New York, but especially so, given the quality of food and atmosphere. Worth the price and your time.

Pro Tip: If you do decide to brunch first and explore the neighborhood second – DON’T drink at brunch. I deeply regretted that first (and second) glass of bubbly once forced to hoof it down sidewalks in the midday heat.

Bonus Tip: Bring a fan. One of those fancy, flip them out, Japanese style, Scarlett O’Hara fans. Everyone will be jealous of your forethought and intelligence as you coolly enjoy the New Orleans’s streets.

Lafayette Cemetery – My closest friends know that I have a mild obsession with cemeteries. Particularly the old ones with hundreds of years of history beneath them; filled with gorgeous mausoleums and cracked tombstones. I always try to find someone who either died or was born on my birthday - to date I’ve only found one. A man named Tom, buried in Lafayette Cemetery, who died in New Orleans (I assume) exactly 100 years before the day I was born. Maybe that’s all a little morbid, but I find cemeteries to be a piece of beautiful, peaceful history and the best places to go and think. While in the Garden District, especially if you have a mild fascination with death and the dead or just enjoy history, check out Lafayette Cemetery. It is the oldest cemetery in New Orleans, free to get into and of a manageable size to walk around. If you want a tour there are many spots in the city that offer tours (or ghost tours) of not only Lafayette, but some of the City’s other famous cemeteries such St. Louis Cemetery #1.

Magazine street – I almost missed Magazine Street. We had some extra time on our final morning in NOLA and stumbled onto it as we were wandering around. Magazine Street runs from the French Quarter all the way through the Garden District to Audubon Park. As you move into the Garden District the street becomes full of shops and local art. There are also plenty of restaurants, watering holes or coffee if you need a boost or want to make a morning of it.

Magazine Street is the spot you want to come to bring home those non-tacky souvenirs. The souvenirs for when your friends ask you where you got that piece of jewelry or art, you don’t have to say ‘Target’ or ‘Ikea’, instead you get to flip your hair, smile and nonchalantly say, “New Orleans”. Instantly making everyone jealous. So, go. Go to Magazine Street. Support the Artists. Buy things. Make your home and the world a better place. I spent just under 2 hours there and wish we had more time to slowly browse through all the shops.

Side Note About Health - If you’ve had enough fried chicken, biscuits and po’ boys and feel like your heart may actually be stopping, head over to Willa Jean. It sits in the Arts District – on the edge of the Garden District. They serve a lighter, healthier fare that will make you falsely feel like you’ve balanced out the entirety of your previous consumption. The Arts District itself is a neighborhood I did not get to fully explore, but it is certainly on my list when I return (It, along with Audubon Park).

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Treme:

The Treme. We admittedly did not spend much time in this neighborhood. Our passing through was with one goal in mind: Fried Chicken at Willie Mae’s. On Sunday morning, we rented bikes and rode through the streets from the French Quarter to the Treme. However, like many places in New Orleans on a Sunday, Willie Mae’s was not open. I hear the chicken is worth the visit, just be sure to check opening times before you go.

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General Tips

· Music: Do a quick google before you go and check to see if there are any music festivals happening while you are visiting. We happened to be in town during the Bayou Boogaloo, so obviously had to go.

· Swamp: If you are interested in a day outside the city, there are plenty of tour options that will take you to the swamps in the surrounding area, either for kayak tours, boat tours, etc. These take a full day, so be sure to plan your time accordingly.

· Transportation: I recommend hopping on one of the City’s trollies to work your way between the neighborhoods. For $2.50 they are far cheaper than a cab and fun to ride.

· Bikes: Another excellent option if you are exploring during the day is to rent a bike. The city is easy to navigate and many of the streets have dedicated bike lanes. One of the best ways to see the city and easily get around. I would highly recommend doing this on one or more days of your visit.

That is just a sampling of what is available, there are so many more things we were unable to get to and I certainly want to go back. But I loved our time there and came home feeling truly refreshed after experiencing so many wonderful things and experiencing them at a slow pace. If you do go be sure to leave room in your plan for spontaneity because you will inevitably come across a market or a bar or a music festival that you’ll want to enjoy. Rent bikes, ride, wander, eat, drink and dance but go slowly. Take a nap and take your time - soak up that southern atmosphere.